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Presentation of Panerai spring novelties: Back to the basics ?

Le 15 May 2015
Malik
Malik "Pifpaf" Bahri
L'auteur.

Hello Ristis, hello normal people too,

As you probably have noticed, on Foudroyante but also on the independant forums, this year’s SIHH has been terribly mocked by the the Paneristis.
Tough trollage, yes , but totally justified, so much this 2015 presentation was kind of an artistic mess.

I have been presuming for quite a long time that the product creation of the Officine is directed on sight, guiding the creation of the PAM according to the reactions on the web. By the way, Panerai’s teams have been briefed to read carefully what is said on the web forums & blogs. Even if I don’t have my SL, and if I’m not heard by the Officine, at least I’m read (and so are you!!).

  • The proof ?

Panerai comes back with four ultra-classical and salutary products, after a SIHH2015 worthy of the Barnum Circus parade.

Or else, it’s a new OP’s strategy, the pieces with a « HH » orientation for the SIHH, and the pieces for the Paneristic cultists between the salons ?
I would tend toward the former, but the Officine moves in mysterious ways. Amen.

  • Here are those four neo-vintage diving watches (yes, they are diving watches, no equation of time case engraved on carbon at 250000€…): 

The PAM590 (already seen), Bettarini case, with the new P.5000 (great calibre : 8 days via two barrels, frequency 21600 bph, large-format 15.75 lines (35mm) 4.5mm thick, balance a bit small, too bad).
It takes over the famous 8-days vintage logo, in a remarkably sober context, with aged indexes.
This product is coherent and effective, at the crossroad of several vintage influences, a successful combination of 90’s and 50’s looks.

Panerai PAM590

The PAM609 & 610 replacing the PAM183 & 210. Those two Radomirs were among the Panerai most purshased by the apprentices Paneristis. Versatile, ultra-classical, less extreme than the historical 47mm Rad, they reassure the novice and are effective in all circumstances.

  • The cases of the 609 & 610 are still made of steel, still 45mm and 100m waterproof.

Visually, the big difference lies in the dial with the « 8 days » inscription refering to the calibre P.5000, which replaces the Unitas. Contrary to the tremendous vintage badge of the PAM203 & 509, I’ve never liked this « 8 days » (featured on the PAM190 with 8 days calibre from JlC). By the way, the arrival of the P.5000 could have been an apt time to generalise the badge of the 50’s in Italien, too bad.

  • However, the watches are very well-made. I’m waiting to have them in hand (the OP is a specialist of the presentation of gohst watches…) to find out if the very harmonious proportions of the PAM183 & 210 cases have been preserved. 

Panerai PAM609Panerai PAM610

 

Eventually, the highlight of the show : the Panerai PAM619.

It’s a remake of the PAM572 & 573 (45mm steel or pink gold Little Egyziano « 1940 » case), but in titanium. And as the picture of the press release shows, it changes everything.
If the PAM572 was a bit dull, this PAM619 looks utterly charming, with a 40’s atmosphere created by the dark and brushed titanium, and the brown dial. Good idea : as with other titanium models (PAM311), the hands are brown too. The font is cream-coloured, like the indexes. The whole features less marked contrasts, which visually rounds the watch. Good.

Panerai PAM619

Neverthelless, the shortcoming of this watch is its calibre : a P.4000, a movement that has nothing to do in a Panerai, for several reasons : average diameter (13,75 lines – 30,6mm), relatively high frequency (28800 bph for 72h of PwR), and above all a micro-rotor with highly fine watchmaking connotations…

The price should be around 10.000€, which is a lot, even too much, but still it’s less shocking than the Carbotech at more than 15.000€…

  • To be clear, this PAM619 isn’t the ultimate Panerai, but it looks, on paper at any rate, beautiful and well-made, and restores the faith in the future. The end of the world might not be too imminent after all. 

Panerai PAM619 flanc

We can resurface.
Pifpaf.